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Authentic cooking, hole-in-the-wall funkiness, and attentive service make their mark here. The menu is extensive but easy to navigate, with an emphasis on Northern Chinese sweetness and spice: beef rolls with tender flaky flat cakes, thinly sliced beef, and a light hoisin dressing are the best in Vancouver. Lamb is stir-fried with darkly rounded spicy bean paste and bright with green cilantro greens are sautéed with malt vinegar and peppercorns for Sichuan A-Choy. Regulars swear by stir-fried potato in spicy vinegar sauce, which retains a tender-crisp edge and brings an unexpected freshness to the dish.

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