Francesco and Lauretta Coccaro, both of whom hail from the same Southern Italian village, run a formal, white-linen room that belies the free-form Italian cooking. Find substantial, expertly prepared entrées of beef, veal, prawn, lobster, and salmon, each well sauced. Produce is mostly locally sourced, the herbs coming direct from the Coccaro garden the wines are B.C. and Italian.