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This Shanghainese/Taiwanese restaurant is always packed—perhaps because they cook Shanghai cuisine with a little more sugar and spice than is traditional. A simple modern room opens to a glassed-in open kitchen, where you can see cooks furiously wrapping, steaming, and frying. (You’d never guess the space once housed a 7-Eleven.) Don’t miss the excellent appetizer and dim sum selections standouts include cold wine chicken, partially deboned and rolled into savoury roulades. Try the excellent xiao long bao, with delicate wonton skins and superb pork filling.

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