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Stuart Irving makes his return to pan-Latin fusion in this long, lean industrial space marked by exposed brick walls and Mexican wrestling posters. Belly up to one of the wooden high-top communal tables and imbibe with an Estaban Canal: thyme- and cilantro-infused Pisco with pear nectar, lime juice, honey, egg whites, and bitters. Small plates for sharing are Irving’s strong suit: Lois Lake steelhead trout ceviche with a lychee, chayote, cucumber, and jalapeno salad; mole lamb albondigas tacos; blue-corn bread with guajillo chili butter.

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