No expense was spared in the creation of the Sutton Place Hotel’s anchor restaurant: the 290-seat dining room is among the most opulent in the city, yet somehow it feels neither too formal nor too self-consciously modern. Hotel eateries invariably face the challenge of attracting tourists while winning and retaining the loyalty of locals. The talents of executive chef Alex Chen (who placed in the top 10 at the 2013 Bocuse d’Or) help to ensure it achieves this balancing act, as does a menu that aims to please the many and the few. Impeccably fresh seafood more than justifies a splurge: ahi tuna tartare prepared tableside rich uni and lardo spread onto crostini, just-shucked east- and west-coast oysters, a head-turning seafood tower. Be sure to explore Justin Taylor’s signature cocktails and the organic/sustainable-minded wine list.