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Hipsters and Thai food lovers queue patiently for a seat in Tai Keattivanichvily’s comfortable eatery. The succinct menu includes popular dishes like green papaya salad with green beans and tomatoes (the balance of sour, salty, and sweet in the dressing offsets the heat from bird’s-eye chilies) and traditional pad Thai that derives its sweetness from tamarind paste instead of ketchup (a cutting-corners trick often used by Thai takeaways). Eggplant pad ka pow loaded with Thai holy basil packs a fiery, flavourful punch.

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