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It shouldn’t work, but it does—to a ridiculous degree: a selection of meats and vegetables sandwiched between nori-flecked “buns” of pressed rice. What they lack in neatness (help yourself to many napkins you’ll need them) they make up with some of the most unique flavour collisions to be found for less than 10 dollars. (Add kimchi, cheese, avocado, or a fried egg for even more eye-rolling pleasure.) Seafood-stuffed Korean pancakes and spicy “ramyeon” with shrimp dumplings and are also bargain-priced winners, but the namesake attraction is why so many have quickly become regulars at this diminutive storefront. Seating is extremely limited, but take your order to go—you have too much dignity to be seen acting so gluttonous in public.

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