Oh, Joe Fortes, you silver-haired fox. You manage to keep the joint hopping year after year, and every one of your Hugo Boss-clad patrons seems to be having a super time. If they mind the absurd markups on the otherwise stellar wine list, they don’t say so ditto the $20-plus price tag for six Kumamoto oysters which, to be fair, are probably the city’s best. It must be the consistently solid service or the chance to glimpse a Hollywood A-lister on the swell seasonal rooftop patio.