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Young owners Jackie Avery and Aiyana Kane swapped lesson plans for kitchen inventories when they left elementary-school teaching for the restaurant biz. Bandidas, in the dreary stretch of Commercial at 12th, is all Sally Ann lamps and mismatched plates, but the food is exuberant Mexicana with one crucial exception: everything is vegetarian/vegan. Burritos are ample, but opt for tacos or enchiladas so you can try the housemade soft corn tortillas, almost injera-like in their delicacy. The place is frequently packed, so bring a Carlos Fuentes novel or sit at the bar with a cerveza or grainy horchata (cold rice milk).

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