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Vancouver’s ongoing pizza craze was born from a perfect storm of food fetishism and a belt-tightening economy. Of the many worthy contenders for sexiest pie, we’re crushing on Via Tevere, which pulls off that neat trick of being planted in its neighbourhood but atmospherically transporting: the room has a buzzy, cozy bonhomie, but the yawning, teal-tiled, wood-fired oven at the centre of the room announces that the pizzaioli mean biz. Purists can rest easy: the blistery, minimalist margheritaÑwith its tangy tomato, creamy fior di latte mozza, and aromatic basilÑshows how brilliant a few simple, quality ingredients can be.

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