Chef David Gunawan’s diminutive dream room has been full at virtually every seating since sweeping three categories (including Restaurant of the Year) in our 2014 Restaurant Awards. Equal parts hole-in-the-wall comfort station and mad scientist’s lair, it pulses with energy as Gunawan and his cooks and dishwashers square-dance around the kitchen, which is so open you almost feel like you’re eating in it. Yes, it’s all farm-to-table, as the name suggests, but that earthy sensibility is always refracted through layers of technique and flavour combinations. Menus change frequently to reflect the seasons and chef’s whims, but what you can always expect is to be offered something you’ve never seen before (and possibly never will again). It’s the kind of place where you eat and talk about the food—but not just because you think you’re supposed to.