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Historically, smart/casual hasn’t been the Kerrisdale way, so the ’hood clearly appreciates Bufala: it jumps most evenings with families too bushed to cook (lots of kids at start of service), and later, intrepid sojourners from downtown and the East Side. They’re mostly coming for thin(ish)-crust pizzas that don’t slavishly adhere to the use of 00 flour and San Marzano tomatoes but have fun with revered meats like braised oxtail and fennel sausage. The pies are nicely loaded, if pricey. There are also strong, bitters-built cocktails (try the Boulavardier) and affordable bottles of wine.

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