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Chef Makoto Ono brings world-class experience to his new Gastown room, itself a stunning vision of cosmopolitan Vancouver. But it’s the grounding time spent in his family’s Winnipeg Japanese restaurant that shines through. His cooking plays with tension and expectation, lightness against richness, clean Asian flavours given French luxury a balancing act pulled off with sure handed maturity. Raw scallops come with pomegranate red curry oil, daikon, and green apple shreds of raw kohlrabi give classic Dan Dan noodles modern vigor fried chicken wings are like none other in the city. Desserts don’t quite hit the same high notes, so consider settling in with a smoothly civilized Japanese single malt whisky instead.