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A change in ownership brought a much-needed face-lift to both the décor and the menu of this no-frills chain restaurant, with a new focus on healthy options. Start with the green papaya salad tossed with strips of sweet beef jerky in tangy vinaigrette. House special pho dac biet is a slurptastic beef-lover’s delight: a jumble of brisket, soft tendon, tripe, and meatballs with noodles in light, clean broth.

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