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The crowds spilling out onto the sidewalk at the East Side location are the first clue there’s something special going on. Inside, 20-some tables string out through the small, skinny space, and the reason for the crowds quickly becomes obvious. Platters heaped with interesting, authentic Malaysian food fill every table: whole crispy-skinned fish in soy sauce Kari beef brisket in red curry Hainanese chicken rice stir-fried water spinach. Well-heeled Malaysians flock here, along with plenty of others. But the prices are excellent.

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