Owners Lee Cooper and Paul Grunberg (both formerly of Jean Georges’ Market) have a winner with this French-backboned, elegant but entirely unfussy gem that plays host to both the neighbourhood hipsters and the city’s big-money players. Cooper’s menu reads simply, which adds a wow factor to every plate delivery (local, seasonal ingredients are given ingenious treatment, like an elevated take on the classic steak Diane). Seats at the bar are highly prized. Arguably Gastown’s finest.