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It’s easy to pass by Kiriri’s unassuming mini-mall location, but the culinary skill and attention to detail going on inside are worth seeking out. The menu features both familiar standbys and sparkles of modern sophistication: shiromi of white fish dabbed with yuzu chili, hamachi paired with jalapeno, and kimchi-wrapped sashimi each deftly balance heat against clean, fresh notes. Simple sashimi dishes are a showcase of spectacular knife work: translucent squid is crosshatched with delicate scales local salmon is sliced at long angles to maximize the grain toro is deeply yet almost invisibly scored so its outrageous richness blossoms on the palate. To finish, try the black-sesame crme brulee, both delicious and witty (we won’t ruin the surprise).

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