Emmanuel Joinville’s remarkable little spot in Gastown hits all the right notes, conjuring hearty, unpretentious French bistro fare in a room transported straight from Le Marais. Start with the sizeable terrine de campagne with grape chutney before moving to the palate-fondling beef tenderloin in a red wine sauce, or the duck confit with frisée salad. Finish with a vanilla bean crme brélée. Bottled Kronenbourg 1664 is available, and a daily three-course prix fixe (salad or soup steak, salmon, or mussels with frites and chocolate terrine) for $29 makes this room as affordable as it is authentic.