To see how a restaurant can continue to evolve and improve look no further than CinCin Ristorante and Bar. A stalwart of Robson Street for over 25 years, the room’s faux Tuscan decor is beyond clunky, recalling the glory days of the Vancouver Stock Exchange and smooth talking stock promoters. The food more than compensates. Smart, confident and utterly delicious; each carefully edited plate reflects the ideals of simplicity and balance.

Sauced with care and a light hand, a recent dish of buoyant tagliatelle, showered with shavings of white truffles, was a magical marriage of simplicity and mouth filling wallops of flavor.  The roaring heat of their wood-fire grill gives roasted meat succulence and immediacy with just a touch of smoke. Whole branzino is perfectly cooked, flesh just releasing from the bone. Luscious pork tenderloin is served with simple accompaniments of apple, cabbage and Brussels sprouts. For dessert, the composed tableau of chocolate ganache, crema, and gelato is glorious.

In a world where it seems like more is more and loudest is best, the cooking of Chef Andrew Richardson reminds us of what true luxury is: restraint.