Chef Tony. He was the original chef at Sea Harbour Seafood Restaurant, and the cooking here certainly recalls the same precision, ambition and swagger. Dinner highlights include ridiculously succulent roasted squab, poached free-range chicken, opulent with shaved black truffles, and snappy sea cucumber dressed in olive oil and black vinegar. Dim sum is spectacular: try the sui mai dumplings (hand-chopped pork gives them magnificent texture), and chicken wings stuffed with goose-liver-scented sticky rice. Desserts at lunch are knockouts: astonishingly feather-light steamed sponge cake crackling buns filled with custard and warm, wobbly, yolkless egg tarts. The interior here is unapologetically flashy, but service is spot-on. Reservations are a must.