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Two years ago, Cactus Club opened its English Bay location, and with its killer view, elevated wine list, and take-out stand with perpetual lineups, it seemed like casual fine dining had its Mt. Olympus. Well, meet the new boss. The chain’s Coal Harbour location is in many ways more impressive, given the occasionally moribund neighbourhood it occupies. Despite its cavernous space (it seats 600) it’s always packed with acolytes of chef Rob Feenie’s sablefish or his barbecue duck clubhouse. The best part (other than the view) is the juiced-up wine list, which features such enticers as Caymus Special Selection at less than double markup.

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