Barbecue (the noun, not the verb) done right is a thing of beauty, but B.C.’s litany of laws and regulations conspire to turn a cuisine that’s supposed to be relaxed, communal, and cheap into something far more uptight and pricey. Thankfully, some die-hard lovers persist, and the proprietors of this spot on Denman have created a room that’s an ode to the idea of barbecue rather than a slavish devotion to the craft. The result wouldn’t cut it in Austin or Greensboro (both places that would demand venison from a place called Buckstop), but in Vancouver, their pulled pork —cheaper than a lot of food carts—paired with a pint of Blue Buck or a well-priced whisky, is a welcome addition.