Chef/owner Brad Miller’s inviting bistro feels grounded in local history rather than the illusion of Paris so many French restaurants attempt. The kitchen executes a menu anchored in blue-collar classics with vigour and sophistication. Attention is lavished on even the simplest dishes. Start with the beautifully hand-tossed butterleaf salad or one of the daily tartinesÑtoasted bread topped with superb pork rillettes, insanely silky hummus studded with fried chickpeas, or a heavenly brandade of whipped potato and salt cod. Specials may be succulent grilled mackerel brightened with a sharp salsa verde, lovely little rice and escargot croquettes, or white-wine moules frites with epically crispy fries. Desserts are equally satisfying. The wine list delivers full French flavours at terrific value.