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5 new and notable rooms

By Joie Alvaro Kent

Fraîche
Perched high on a West Van hill, Fraîche takes the title for most spectacular restaurant view, minus the gondola ride. After leaving executive chefdom at Chartwell to open Crave, his excellent Main Street casual bistro, chef Wayne Martin is flexing his fine-dining muscles once again. Together with manager Mary Ann Masney, Martin has come up with a winning formula: an elegant room in an inspired location paired with a menu of seasonal, West Coast contemporary classics. Add a a smart, if concise, wine list and you have the makings of a West Van success story. Pastry chef Amanda Cheng’s chocolate malt bar—sinfully creamy mousse sandwiched between crisp feuilletines—kicks Three Musketeers to the curb. 2240 Chippendale Rd., West Van, 604-925-7595

Go for slow-roasted duck breast with black lentils and truffled carrots.
Price tag Entrées $18-$40

Tequila Kitchen
A series of red-tape hiccups had left the décor and the menu mired in a “soft opening” stage when we last visited, but know that Tequila Kitchen is a delicious work in progress. Chef Juan González dishes out a menu of authentic central and southeastern Mexican fare focused on multilayered flavours. A monthly five-course tasting menu ($37) allows newcomers to try dishes like pollo en pipian verde, exquisitely prepared chicken in a green pumpkin-seed sauce. Wander through the list of 20 tequilas—we recommend ordering a tasting flight. 1043 Mainland St., 604-681-2120

Go for botanas (tapas) like panela en salsa verde (velvety Mexican cheese blanketed in a tomatillo and jalapeño salsa) and ceviche de pescado (tart chunks of lime-marinated halibut).
Price tag Entrées from $13

The New Bohemian
Ivo Staiano and partner Paul Gibbons opened the stylish New Bohemian in the space formerly occupied by Sean Sherwood’s Winebar at Fiction. A major face-lift has opened up this contemporary room: a sleek bar runs the length of the back wall; scarlet-tinged lighting plays up custom wall tattoos by Surface Collective. Organic meats and OceanWise seafood figure in chef Kevin Sanwell’s globally inspired, comfort-food menu. (Think thin-crust pizzas, pastas, and burgers with a twist.) Mondays and Tuesdays feature wallet-friendly libations (25 percent off wine and bubbly); a DJ spins Thursdays through Sundays.3162 West Broadway, 604-736-7576

Go for chocolate-chip banana bread topped with caramelized bananas.
Price tag Entrées $15-$20

Uva Wine Bar
Retaining only the original terrazzo floors as a nod to the building’s 1906 heritage, Uva (Italian for “grape”) was built from the ground up as a sophisticated, intimate space, with sleek leather swivel stools and punchy red-and-white graphic wallpaper. The kitchen will open mid-June, so the focus for now is top-notch cheeses and charcuterie to complement the extensive selection of sips. Former Lumière sommelier and GM Sebastien Le Goff’s expert hand shows in the smartly chosen wine and whiskey list. 900 Seymour St., 604-632-9560

Go for artisanal cured meats courtesy of Oyama and Moccia; rare Italian cheeses like Foresti Tallegio and Toma Piemontese, and B.C. gems like Alpine Gold and Beddis Blue.
Price tag Average of $20 per person

Benkei Noodle Shop
Denman and Robson is the epicentre of ramen-noodle restaurants, and newcomer Benkei Noodle Shop stands its ground against more-established joints. Warm and welcoming, the tiny room buzzes. There are three types of traditional broth to choose from: shoyu (chicken consommé), shio (luxuriant tonkotsu broth made from slow-simmered pork bones), and miso (a combo of the two). Customize your bowl from a list of add-on toppings—you’ll walk out with a full stomach and change from a $10 bill. 1741 Robson St., 604-688-6980

Go for the noodles, and a side of chashu onigiri (snack-sized rice balls with chunks of roasted pork, wrapped in nori).
Price tag $8 for basic bowl

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