|
Doctor Pepper:
Stuart Irving, Cobre
For a chef who uses 10 different kinds of chilies on
his menu, it’s somewhat surprising that Stuart
Irving doesn’t like his food too hot. He
prefers a nice building heat that doesn’t
numb the tongue. Nearly a year ago Irving, 38,
opened Cobre, serving “nuevo Latino” fare
that spans cuisine from the Mexican border to the
shores of Argentina. South American grub has always
been his comfort food (not counting his mother’s
roast beef and Yorkshire pudding), but this night
owl keeps his creative juices flowing with a varied
diet, snacking on raw carrots and Granny Smith
apples, or jicama sprinkled with Tajín (a
mix of chili flakes, dehydrated lime, and salt).
At Cobre, poblano peppers play a big role in his
Mexican prawn dish ($15), and Irving can’t
find them anywhere but at El Sureño
Market
(1730 Commercial Dr., 604-253-5017; Elsurenomarket.com),
where he also sources Brazil nuts, fresh cheese
Oaxaca-style, organic quinoa, and cactus paddles.
At Que Pasa Mexican Foods (12031
No. 5 Rd., Richmond, 604-241-8175; Quepasafoods.com),
he buys the kernel-like
pequín chilies that go into his salmon ceviche
($13). Cobre’s wild boar and bison come from
Hills Foods (1–130 Glacier
St., 604-472-1500; Hillsfoods.com), and produce,
jicama, and tomatillos
from Jim M. Koo Produce (777 Clark
Dr., 604-253-6622; Kooproduce.com). Irving knows
that some customers
like their dishes hotter than he does, so he keeps
El Yucateco’s searing Mayan-style hot sauce
in the back. Just ask for it.—Suzanne Mozes
Mini Review: Japadog

Image credit: Angela
Fama |
At the hot-dog stand in front of the
Sutton Place Hotel (at the corner of Burrard and Smithe),
suits and skaters alike wait in a half-hour lunch line
for Noriki Tamura’s take on hot dogs, Japanese-style.
In addition to standard street meats like Bavarian
wurst and bratwurst, Tamura loads up Korabuta wieners
(the highest-quality pork) with Japanese condiments
like kaiware (radish sprout), seaweed, and miso-sesame.
Tamura himself ate more than 200 of them last year: “Half
my body is hot dog!” While he favours the Oroshi
with wasabi mayo, we love the misomayo with hot pepper.
Tamura and his wife plan to introduce a new Kobe beef
dog to the menu, and perhaps even open a storefront.
Yes, please! Burrard Street at Smithe—SM
Hot Buy: Norpro Fish Flipper, $14.95
Hard-core grill masters know that size
matters. Norpro’s eight-inch-wide, stainless-steel
flipper is the Ferrari of fish turners, lauded for
its broad, slatted
base and forged from the
highest grade of commercial steel (also available in
nonstick). This baby won’t rust even
when it’s left out in the rain. Finest at Sea,
4675 Arbutus St., 604-266-1904.—SM
Comment!
Click here to submit a letter about this story.
BACK TO FOOD AND DRINK HOME
|