Is Muscadet the New Rosé?

No, it's not...but it should be.

August 31, 2017

By Neal McLennan

We’re at peak rosé—by which I mean I walked into Homesense the other day and there was an entire table dedicated to rosé-themed merchandise. So fun!

“Wouldn’t Ethel just love this ‘rosé o’clock’ drinks tray?”

Why yes, she would.

Ethel would just love this shirt, too.

I’m not here to crap on rosé: it’s sometimes amazing, usually more than fine and occasionally complete crap. But the one thing it’s most definitely not, is cool.

And before anyone goes off half-cocked, saying the concept of cool has no place in wine, I remind you that were it not for someone deeming natural wine cool we’d all be deprived of the joy of drinking vino that tastes like apple cider vinegar and pretending we like it. So there.

Which brings me to Muscadet.

Muscadet is undoubtedly cool. For starters the name is cool to say: Musk-a-day. It sounds like something from an Alexandre Dumas novel. (Pere btw.) Secondly, it’s affordable, so the kids like it. Thirdly, there’s no Muscadet-related paraphernalia at Winners. And finally, it’s just such an amazing wine. Take this bottle from Domaine Bonnet-Huteau. At $24 it’s at the top of the Muscadet price chain, but for that price you get a wine that’s the definition of crisp: green apple, underripe nectarine, some lemon zest—all with a vein of  minerality winding through. It’s both organic (cool) and biodynamic (cooler). Seeing it coming out of an ice-bucket is like seeing three dragons roar over an army of unsuspecting Lannisters—thrilling. And nerdy at the same time.

Don’t underestimate cool—especially when there’s something amazing behind it.

Domaine Bonnet-Huteau
Muscadet Sevré et Maine La Tarciére, $24

 

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